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| Note: TIB's
Brushes can be used to make dolls of all sizes! |
This
Tutorial has been prepared by Cindy Howe.
Tisha Ritter is the owner and originator of the TIBs Brushes and Technique.
Tisha has granted Cindy permission to do the tutorial and they have both given us
permission to use the tutorial on our website. |
Cindy's Tutorial Follows:
I have been making porcelain dolls since the 70's, and frankly am rather a
traditionalist when it comes to the techniques I use. I have always cleaned my
greenware dry, because I felt it gave much better results than the soft fire method.
I know that there are serious health risks involved in years of breathing porcelain
dust, but I was not willing to sacrifice the quality of my finished dolls. I am
thrilled to say that there is finally a new method that gives results as good as, and in
many cases superior to dry cleaning. I am pleased to share this information with
you, and hope that you will give it a try. This method will make
greenware cleaning fast, easy, and most importantly, more healthy!
Your greenware will
be beautifully cleaned in 1/3 the time, with ....
No more dust in the
lungs, or all over the house!
You MUST use the
brushes specified in this tutorial, nothing else will give the same results.
T.I.B.s brushes
stands for Tisha's Incredible Brushes. Tisha Ritter has developed this
wonderful product line, and the methods for it's use. I have adapted and
illustrated her techniques for use with our tiny doll castings to show you how wonderfully
these brushes can work for us too.
General Cleaning
Technique |
Materials
T.I.B.s Brushes sizes
4,5,6 for miniatures
Greenware
Bowl of Clean tap
water
Absorbent fabric
Exacto Knife
Finger Tool
Ball Stylus
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| Special Note: Cindy has only used sizes 4,5 and 6
in her tutorial but I strongly recommend that you also use sizes 2 and 3 to clean
miniature dolls. It will be more efficient and faster. Sincerely...Jackie
Caron |
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Pour desired greenware in the normal manner. If
you need information on greenware casting, refer to my tutorial "Casting Miniature
Molds".
This cleaning method works with either leather hard or completely dry greenware with the
same excellent results. HOWEVER, when working on miniatures in leather hard stage, it is
much easier to melt off features with too much water. My
preference is to work on dry greenware.
If using leather hard, use VERY LITTLE water, and LOTS of care. Also, if working on
leather hard greenware, substitute a wire cleaning tool for the scalpel to remove seams.
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When using the T.I.B.s brushes, two different
positions are used. Using the right brush position for each step is VERY important
for the best results. This is the usual position that you would use a
brush to stroke, with the flattest side of the bristles horizontal, parallel to the
surface.
We will call this the horizontal position. This position is used in the
second step of cleaning. |
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The brush is rotated 1/4 turn, so that the narrow side
of the brush is actually the edge that comes in contact with the porcelain.
The wide flat area of the ferrule is facing your body. This
is the first position used in this method when cleaning and removing seams. |
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You will need to keep a bowl of clean plain tap
water at hand. During some steps, you will be cleaning your brush often. To
clean, tap and press the brush against the side of the bowl. Swishing the brush around in
the center of the bowl does not clean it out. You must use the side of the bowl to
remove the clay from the bristles.
You will also need a piece of absorbent cloth, such as a cloth diaper, or old
cotton t-shirt, folded several layer thick on which to blot excess water from your
brushes. |
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Ok, lets begin to clean our doll.
Gently remove bulk of mold seams using your scalpel. |
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Dampen your T.I.B.s brush in clear water. Blot
brush lightly on absorbent cloth pad to remove excess water. |
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Hold brush in the position shown, the Vertical
position, and move across the seam line, using the side of the brush to move in the
direction shown. Continue stroking in this manner down the entire length of the seam
area.
You do not need to rinse your brush very often at this point, as the clay in
the bristles helps with the cleaning process.
Use this method to smooth all areas where seams have been removed. |
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Use your dampened brush to smooth areas such as the
cutout on the bottom of the torso, tops of arms or legs, and armholes.
Notice how quickly these brushes smooth jagged cut edges?? |
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Use a tiny ball stylus to define nostrils if desired. |
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Use a finger tool to define ears, sides of nostrils,
eyelids, mouth creases, or any other area that you want more definition in. |
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After all seam lines have been removed,
and all additional detailing has been done, it is time to smooth your entire surface.
The HORIZONTAL brush position is used for this step, and you MUST rinse your
brush often.
Wet your brush, and blot excess water. Use just the soft TIPS of the
bristles to gently stroke over the entire surface of the doll. Start at the top of
head, and stroke downward, following the curves and contours of the face. After
every 2 strokes, STOP, rinse your brush completely and blot. then continue.
You should see any white streaks on the surface disappearing, and your surface should be
completely smooth when finished. |
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To clean hands, use your scalpel or finger tool to
remove seams. Define or separate fingers as desired using the finger tool. Use your
size 6 T.I.B.s brush in the vertical position to smooth seam areas in the same manner as
you did for the head. |
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After cleaning seams, use your brush in the
horizontal position to do an all over smoothing of the piece, remembering to use a very
light tough, a very clean brush, and to blot excess water each time you rinse your brush.
The same basic technique is used on legs. |
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T.I.B.s brushes are also wonderful for problem
situations, such as pinholes, and messy joined parts. PINHOLES
Everyone gets pinholes on occasion. The old solution used to be to try
and sand them down, or fill them, neither of which was very effective, or much fun.
The most drastic solution was to throw out the piece.
Not any more. Here is a LARGE pinhole. |
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With a damp T.I.B.s brush in the vertical position, I
stroked across the pinhole 3 times, and then stroked once in the horizontal
position. The pinhole has completely vanished!!!! |
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ATTACHING AND PATCHING... I want
to make a special doll for an upcoming tutorial. I need to have two legs that can be
used in a kneeling position. The mold I have has a left leg that is in the perfect
position The right leg is bent too much for my use. I can't have a doll with
two left feet...... |
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My solution will be to cut off the feet on a pair of
legs, and attach a right foot to a left leg........ Working with
leather hard greenware...
I cut the feet off at the same place on the ankles, and stuck the foot into
place with just a tiny bit of water on the joining surfaces. |
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Using the brush in the vertical position, I stroked
quickly across the area where the two pieces were joined.
I then finished cleaning the seams on the piece, and smoothed the overall
surface with the brush in the horizontal position, remembering to rinse and blot often
when smoothing. |
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After less than a dozen brushstrokes over the
attached area, the leg is perfect, with no sign of any patching or attaching.
No other method is as fast or gives such wonderful results when adding or
patching greenware. |
Cindy Howe is a very talented
artist, writer and doll maker.
She has generously given of her time to prepare this tutorial. |